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Textile Encyclopaedia – fabrics and materials from A-Z
3-in-1 jackets elastane necktape rip stop
jacket consisting of two components synthetic fibre used in small quantities fabric tape between body and collar for typical chequered structure due to a
that can either be worn individually or for a better elasticity and form stability comfortable wearing, shoulder-to-shoul- special weaving technique, mostly made
together, e.g. removable fleece, jackets felt der necktape is a characteristic of qua- of nylon, characteristics: particular
offers the opportunity to wear fleece non-woven fabric, fibres get connected lity and improves dimensional stability tear-resistant and strong
and jacket individually or together (3 and stabilisation of the seams
through a chemical, thermic or mecha- semi combed cotton
possibilities to wear). nical process, originally made from wool, new kent collar instead of 3 combing processings there
acrylic also produced in various natural and an elegant mix of kent and cutaway is only one, result is a semi-finished
synthetic fibre similar to wool, cha- synthetic fibres, characteristics: high collar, not as wide as the cutaway, not product between carded (not combed)
racteristics: light-resistant, easy care, density, elastic with pressure, slightly as pointed as the classical kent collar, and combed cotton
warming, high bulkiness, weather- and stretchable, resistant, high isolation suitable for all tie knots set-in sleeves
shape resistance, quick drying
Fil-à-Fil (End-on-End, thread-to- oxford straight set sleeves
antibacterial thread) plain-weave fabric, two-tone appea- single jersey
special treatment to avoid the prolife- made in plain weave, plaid-like fabric rance because of the use of one white fine knitted, stretchy, breathable mate-
ration of bacteria and fungus, reduces look, mostly made of cotton and linen, and one coloured yarn, durable and
rial, inside and outside different (left/
odour marble effect created by the color chan- soft fabric that is warming on cool days, right loops), material of most t-shirts
antipilling ge in the warp (alternation of light and mostly used for leisure wear and often in single ply terry
dark fibers) combination with a button-down collar
special treatment to reduce pilling and
made of fine single yarns, fine loops get
felting fleece padded jackets twisted and connected, softer and more
brushed cotton brushed velour fabric, usually made of quilted parts guarantee an even filling, absorbent fabric, more resistant against
polyester, the loops of this knitwear are filling can exist of various materials,
loose fibres are errected through a pulling out threads
bruhsing process, enables a soft and cut open and roughened, soft and velvet padded jackets with down filling are softshell jackets
velvet surface touch, comfortable on the skin, high called down jackets functional jackets, usually made of 2 or
isolation at low weight, water repellent
brushed inside panels 3 layers (with membrane), inside mate-
sweaters are roughened inside after fleece with smooth surface fabric elements of caps are called rial (e.g. microfleece) provides isolation
knitting to obtain the soft and warming perfect for decoration because of the panels, most caps consist of 5 or 6 and transports the moisture away from
smooth outside, brushed only inside panels, 5 panel caps are better suitable
fleece lining skin, if existing, the membrane has
french terry for decoration on the front (no stitching windproof and breathable function, out-
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button-down collar at the front)
collar points are fixed with buttons, not brushed inside, sweater is less soft side is made of water repellent material,
and warm, less pilling pima cotton that transports moisture to the outside,
sporty look, mostly used for leisure wear
worn without a tie heather/melange high quality due to long fibres, har- softshell jackets without membrane are
cap closures using yarns with different colours and vesting by hand and optimal growing more breathable, jackets with membrane
are more wind and rain proof
conditions in Peru, characteristics: extra
metal clip closure, hook and loop materials creates this effect soft, light shine, extremely durable
fastneer (Velcro®), buckle, press stud herringbone stretch
(click&snap closure, snap back, pvc twill fabric, distinctive V-shaped weaving piqué marks stretchable fabrics including a
granular surface, raised parallel cords share of certain materials like for examp-
closure), Flexfit® pattern, reminding of a fish skeleton,
easy to iron, tough and densely woven or geometric designs in the fabric are le elastane or Lycra®
chino cotton (cotton-twill) characteristic
twill weave fabric, pattern of diagonal fabric, often used for casual business Teflon®
parallel ribs outfits polyamide (nylon) used for coatings, water and dirt repel-
synthetic fibre with high durability, lent, not printable
collar bones hybrid jackets quick drying
are added to the collar to prevent the made of mixed material, that provide terry cloth
collar points from rolling up, collar bo- different characteristics, for example on polycotton cotton fabric typically used for towels,
body and arms, for example wind proof mix of cotton and polyester, to use small loops on one or both sides, very
nes can be fixed or removable and can
be made of different materials (plastic is and breathable materials are combined benefits of both materials soft, bulky and absorbent material
the most commonly used material) interlock polyester (T)PU coating
combed cotton very compact surface, high quality, most common synthetic fibre, cha- through an inside coating the material
the cotton is parallelized before spinning durable, elastic fabric with good washing racteristics: tensile strength, fineness, gets breathable and water repellent or
and short fibres are removed, as a result, results, inside and outside look the same good dimensional stability, low moisture even waterproof
absorption, good wash behaviour, excel-
the spun yarn is finer, stronger and has a jute tubular construction
smoother surface, less pilling bast fibre, made from the stems of jute lent light resistance if not specified differently, all models
Cordura® plant, coarse fibre, characteristics: tear polyester pongee have side seams to adapt the fit, items
resistant, suitable for dying, high firm- fabric made from polyester filaments, without side seams are declared as
trademark, fabric made from polyamide,
characteristics: rougher, better tear-re- ness at stretching, specific smell thin, sleek fabric, formerly made from tubular construction
sistant and more textured than regular kent collar silk twill
nylon, water repellent and fast drying elegant, classical, pointed, short collar poplin twill weave fabric, pattern of diagonal
cotton - suitable for almost all tie knots and plain-weave fabric, breathable, durable, parallel ribs, most common use in denim
natural fibre, high moisture absorption, -shapes, also suitable for bow ties smooth, lightweight and densely woven fabrics, durable fabric with a warm and
pleasant touch, good colourability knitted fleece material, one of the most common soft touch
knitted out- and brushed inside give the fabrics for shirts and blouses viscose (rayon)
cutaway collar
also called Italian collar, widely-spaced fleece an exceptional visual characteri- preshrunk chemical fibre made from a natural basic
stic and a good isolation procedure to reduce shrinkage after material (cellulose), often referred to as
collar points, depending on the distance
between the collar wings it is suitable Lycra® washing (permitted tolerances) artifical silk, eudermic, not stretchable,
for smaller or larger tie knots registered trademark, elastane fibre raglan sleeves strong wrinkling, flowing fabric, very
even surface, perfect for dyeing and
down jackets microfleece diagonale seams course starting from
the collar printing
have to be filled with down from duck short cut fleece material, lighter, finer
or goose, characteristics: light weight, and more compact than regular fleece rib knit
breathable, high isolation, great elasti- mesh right/right product, equal in- and outs-
city (unfold quickly to their original size ide, often used for collar and cuffs, high
material with coarse structure for more
after unpacking), winter jackets consist breathability, often used for linings or elasticity, low material weight, difference
often of a mixture of 90% down and insets between 1x1 rib (alternately knitted left
10% feathers, feathers are important for and right) and 2x2 rib (alternately 2 left
an optimal isolation and enable the right mottled yarn and 2 right stitches)
using yarns with different thickness
unfolding of the jackets that wouldn´t ring-spun cotton
be possible with a filling made of 100% creates this effect softer, finer, smoother and more shiny
down than open end yarn, optimal printability
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